A sustainable fashion material made from banana leaves.

In fashion, the debate about the most sustainable fibre seems endless. The most commonly used materials in garment manufacture all have their drawbacks, yet new innovations are always around the corner, offering feasible alternatives to mainstream textiles. By harnessing the power of nature, lots of new materials are being developed with more than profit in mind. Combining fair wages and good working conditions with environmental sustainability, circularity and durability, the materials of the future have a lot of potential to turn the industry around.

The current debate

Polyester is said to have a lower environmental impact than natural fibres production in terms of water and land, yet it’s an oil based fabric, it requires a lot of energy to be manufactured and isn’t biodegradable, shedding microplastics over the course of its life. Synthetic fibres now account for 60% of global fibre production and are often disguised as vegan leather alternatives.

Natural fibres, on the other hand, despite losing market share amid the growth of synthetics, are often touted as the most sustainable alternative. Nonetheless, they still have significant impacts. Taking cotton, the most commonly used natural fibre, with its substantial water consumption and pesticide use, it definitely leaves room for improvements.

Alongside a reduction in the volume of new garments produced, new materials are definitely needed for the fashion industry to lower its impacts and move towards circularity. When fashion and science come together, the potential for innovation is limitless.

What makes a fabric sustainable?

All new materials require resources to be produced and have an impact, but some are better than others. Sustainable fabrics are usually made from natural or recycled materials, aiming to reduce harm through the production process, looking at both social and environmental standpoints. Such materials usually produce lower emissions, use less water, improve the soil and usually create less waste. Sustainable fabrics should also be strong and durable as that will eventually determine the lifespan of the garment. Sustainable fibers are increasing in popularity, from waste materials to discarded produce, they have the power to bring enormous improvements to fashion.

A prime example of this shift towards new, better textiles is Bananatex®. The development of this material began with the team behind QWSTION, a sustainable brand focused on developing versatile bags for everyday use. “We chose to develop our own materials and use natural fibres wherever possible to achieve the highest sustainability,” says QWSTION.

Image Source: Bananatex®

After 3 years of extensive research, Bananatex® is the result of East Asian resourcefulness and material expertise, combined with modern Swiss design principles centred around sustainability. Working alongside Filipino farmers and Taiwanese yarn specialists, QWSTION developed the world’s first durable, waterproof fabric made entirely from Abacá banana plants. As the word implies, Bananatex® is made from a plant in the banana family that produces fibre instead of fruit.

These Abacá plants grow naturally in the Philippine Islands, specifically in the province of Catanduanes. They do not require chemical treatments such as pesticides or fertilizers, nor any irrigation, as they’re fully self sufficient. This makes them a key player in the reforestation of areas once degraded by palm plantations, while improving farmers' livelihoods.

From plant to bags

The fabric is made using the stalks of the plant, which regenerate completely within one year of harvest. Once they’ve been harvested, the stalks are combed to separate the fibres, and then transformed into yarn at a paper mill in Taipei, Taiwan. In the same place the fabric is treated to become waterproof with the Ruco®-Dry Eco Plus water-repellent treatment and in the case of the black colourway the fabric is dyed using an Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 certified process.

"You could possibly eat the final product."

Hannes Schoenegger, co-founder of Bananatex®

To manufacture the QWSTION bags, the Bananatex® fabric is sent to a small, BSCI (Business and Social Compliance Initiative) certified factory in Taiwan, owned by Mrs Wan and Mr Lai who have 30 years of experience in crafting bags. QWSTION ensures waste is minimized from the onset, starting with the design process in pattern cutting.

Image source: QWSTION

Their bags are almost fully made of natural and recyclable materials, with Rayon, Cotton, or Nylon for belts and straps and a Beeswax coating to make the bags fully water-resistant. The end material is not only biodegradable but very strong and durable, making it ideal for the production of bags and backpacks. The CO2 emissions of 10 QWSTION bags are offset in just one year by a banana tree.

Scaling up and delocalising

Critics are wary of new materials like Bananas causing more harm than good if the scale of production rapidly expands, which is why Bananatex® refuses to go beyond natural farming limits. Schoenegger affirms "Our project is part of a reforestation programme, a good way of revitalising soils and providing work to local families. There's a natural limit and we won't go beyond that, because then it would be harmful."

Bananatex® also has a strong argument against those who believe everything should be localised. They explain that it is more important to look at how, rather than where a product is made. “We manufacture where the know-how is,” says designer Christian Kaegi. “We can contribute more to positive change by establishing where the supply chain is and get better standards.”

Since december 2021 Bananatex® became Cradle to Cradle Certified® Gold, the most advanced standard globally for products that are safe, circular and responsibly made. This acknowledgment affirms Bananatex®’s commitment to protect the natural environment and support the communities the brand engages with.

The future of fashion

Despite still being niche, this material has enormous potential. Bananatex® has already collaborated with the likes of H&M, Danish furniture brand Softline and luxury footwear brand INUIKII. The founders of Bananatex® have not patented this material, but rather it is a completely open source project, in an attempt to encourage other brands to use this fabric.

New innovations are truly needed to change the course of the industry and materials like Bananas prove that it’s possible to develop alternative materials that are not only strong and durable but also benefit all stakeholders involved in their supply chains.

From the Filipino soils and farmers to the Taiwanese yarn makers and manufacturers as well as the end consumer who receives a quality product that’s non toxic, biodegradable and long lasting. We are proud to have the brand QWSTION as part of the SBP community, alongside other conscious brands committed to improving their sustainability profile.

We’re proud to be changing the future of fashion, together.

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